About Us

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Boston, MA, United States
Carolyn is a dog-loving, ice-cream-eating, soccer-ball-kicking, book-reading, bioethics-researching, vegetable-cooking kind of girl, and Mike is a Halo-playing, karate-kicking, HIV-researching, distance-running, Mexican-food-eating, travel-loving, Simpsons-quoting kind of guy. We met in 2004 and were married in 2006. We lived and studied in Oxford, England for three years but have just moved to Boston for... more school. As you can see, we are professional students but someday... SOMEDAY... we hope to have actual, you know, jobs.

14 June 2008

More globetrotting...

The thesis writing is really kicking our bums these days, so apologies for not having time to blog properly. I'm getting too far behind though so here goes: in May, Mike and I had another globetrotting adventure as we took a break from the theses and explored Scandinavia. I'm afraid I won't be able to share many photos because my poor computer, dinosaur that it is (I bought it in 2001), simply can't handle downloading and uploading high definition photos anymore! I'm buying a new one soon so you'll just have to wait... in the meantime, I'll post a few photos from my friend Jared's facebook album instead.

Anyways, back to the adventure: so, we started off by flying to Helsinki and spending a few days exploring there. This was just Mike and me on our own, and aside from the hacking cough I had for a few days, we had a pretty good time. Helsinki is a cool place to visit, but it wasn't quite cool enough to break into our favorite-cities list. It does have a fabulous market on the waterfront, where we enjoyed the most succulent, juicy strawberries I have ever had in my life -- it was a good thing they tasted so amazing because we paid I think 5 euro for ONE cup of them! Ouch...

The hits just kept on coming money-wise: there were days when we literally just had to skip meals because we couldn't afford it! Scandinavia is a great place to visit, but it's VERY hard on the wallet. We tried not to let that ruin our fun though... Another highlight of Helsinki was this incredible Orthodox church that has 12 golden onion-shaped domes on top of its spires. That was quite a sight and Mike proclaimed it his favorite tourist attraction of the day.

After Helsinki, we met my college buddy Jared and his girlfriend Joan in the Aland Islands. There we spent two nights in a lovely rustic cabin in the middle of nowhere on our own private island courtesy of Jared's friend Ann Maj. We sailed around the island, walked through the forest and found a moose skeleton, caught and gutted fish (well, I just watched as the whole killing animals thing doesn't really appeal to me), and had a fantastic time enjoying the quintessential Finnish pastime: hanging out in the sauna! We had an incredible time, even though our sleep schedule was totally thrown off by the fact that at this time of year, the sun sets in Aland around midnight and rises before 4am! Luckily we were having too great a time to care...

After Aland we took a ferry to Stockholm and explored it for a day and a half. Stockholm was much more impressive than I had expected - in fact, it has become one of my three favorite cities in all of Europe! We had a fantastic time exploring the old town and climbing up into the tower palace (although on this particular excursion I was forced to face my two biggest phobias: heights and spiders! -- I'm proud to say I only shrieked once and that was Jared's fault!). Another highlight was visiting the Nobel Museum. It was especially thrilling to visit this year, as a family friend of ours, Mario Cappecchi of the University of Utah, was a joint laureate this year in Physiology and Medicine, so I got a chance to see the digital plaque honoring his contributions to science. Way to go Mario!

That night in Stockholm we stayed in the coolest hostel I've ever seen. It was a converted ship, anchored in the harbor, and we even had a little porthole in our room! The novelty wore off though when we actually had to squeeze four people into a room the size of a closet! The next morning we headed out to Stockholm's amusement park island and Mike and I visited the Vasa Museum where we saw a ship that sank 10 minutes (seriously, 10 minutes!) into its maiden voyage back in the 17th century. A few decades ago, Stockholm organized a massive effort to dredge the ship up from the bottom of the harbor, and now the whole ship, completely restored, sits in the Vasa Museum. It was definitely worth the outrageous entry fee we paid to see it...

After Stockholm it was on to Oslo, which was by far the most expensive city we have ever visited. Everyone there is incredibly thin too... probably it's because food is so expensive no one can afford to eat! Anyway, we arrived in Oslo late one night and made our way to our hostel -- a hostel that turned out to be the worst accommodation I have ever encountered on any trip, anywhere. Mike nicknamed the place Shawshank and it was quite fitting: there were broken bits of pipes and other plumbing parts from toilets strewn about the hallways, and the showers were huge communal affairs with no privacy whatsoever. Luckily we didn't have to spend much time in this wretched place...

On the train from Stockholm to Oslo




The next morning, after a fitful night spent hugging my bags to my chest in the female dorm room (yep, I couldn't even sleep in the same room with my husband in Shawshank) and listening to one of the most massive women I've ever encountered shatter the night with her snoring, we made our way into town and met up with our good friends Alex and Ellen. The six of us caught the ferry out to the Viking Museum and had a great time checking that out. We spent the rest of the day wandering around Oslo - we saw the changing of the guard at the palace, we viewed Munch's "The Scream" in the National Gallery, and we wandered around an incredible sculpture garden.

Our group (minus photographer Joan) on the ferry to the Viking Museum
Mike and me resting in the park after a morning spent exploring Oslo




After another exciting night in Shawshank, we caught an early train to Flam, which is a teeny tiny little town on the banks of the Sonjafjord in Norway. My father, who visited Flam thirty years ago, calls it the most beautiful place on earth, and that's no exaggeration: it was absolutely stunning! We spent two nights there in some cabins and had a blast. There was a rockslide on the mountain just behind us the first night, which was part exciting and part scary (though no one was hurt) and the next day we trekked several kilometers along the fjord to a little farm up in the hills. We also spent the equivalent of $70 to buy a kilo of spaghetti, three jars of sauce, three bell peppers, a bag of carrots, and some ranch dressing to cook dinner... OUCH! Our poor friend Alex lost a bet and then had to buy a round of beers for the group... we took pity on him and subsidized it since the beers - no kidding - cost $13 for a pint!

After Flam we journeyed to Gudvangen via the most amazing ferry ride I've ever taken: two hours of weaving through the Sonjafjord, gaping at the cliffs surrounding us and marveling at the thousands of waterfalls we passed along the way. Upon arriving in Gudvangen, we caught a bus which somehow weaved its way around twenty hairpin turns on what must be the steepest road in Norway. We arrived in Voss and caught a train to Bergen, where we spent an outrageous amount of money on a modest dinner of Chinese food. Then it was sadly time to say goodbye to Jared and Joan, who were staying in town and catching a very early flight the next morning. Alex, Ellen, Mike and I made our way to our hostel on the outskirts of town, spent the night there with no repeats -- thankfully -- of the Shawshank experience, and rose the next morning to explore a bit of Bergen. We only had time to do one thing, and Mike was quite keen to visit the stave church on the outskirts of town, so with luggage in hand and on back we began the trek. And a trek it was! First we had to hike down the massive hill on which our hostel was perched. This nearly killed me as I have very bad knees, but we made it to the bus stop without any incidents. The bus, however, only took us part of the way to the stave church because it was Sunday (chew on that irony for a moment...) and thus we had to hike the last half mile ourselves. Now, hiking a half mile doesn't sound all that difficult, but keep in mind that this is Bergen, which is one of the hilliest towns in the world, and also remember that we were carrying all of our luggage with us. Alex, Ellen, and I started fading fast... but not Mike! Even though he was the only one carrying a heavy rucksack on his back (the rest of us wimps had rolling luggage and small backpacks), he charged on ahead, refused to let us rest for even a second, and led the exhausted troops to the objective like the Army man he is! We nicknamed this part of the trip the Bataan Death March -- but somehow we made it to the stave church which turned out to be pretty cool.

Then it was on to Copenhagen. The four of us had a lovely dinner together on the banks of the canals the first night, and the next day we wandered around the city and saw some of the highlights. The canal tour was lovely, although the sun beating down on us for two hours in an exposed boat tired us out quite a bit. After a simple lunch of bagel sandwiches in the park, we trekked out to the Carlsberg brewery on what turned out to be the adventure of the day. It took us at least 30 minutes just to figure out the subway system, and when we finally made it out to the actual brewery, we found ourselves on the wrong side of what turned out to be an absolutely enormous complex. We hiked around looking for the tourist entrance, and we must have walked two miles before we finally found it... only for it to be - wait for it - closed for the day! What a shame that the otherwise very helpful employees we encountered who guided us to the tourist entrance in the first place failed to inform us that the brewery is not open for tours on Mondays! Ahhhhh well... so it goes. The 45 minutes we spent walking around the darn thing was probably tour enough anyway! Although the boys were quite disappointed not to get a free pint at the end... After this Bataan Death March II, we were too exhausted for anything else and went back to the hostel for a much-needed nap.

That evening, Mike and I had one last dinner with Alex and Ellen and then headed home, which turned out to be an adventure in itself as our flight was delayed for three hours, which caused us to miss the last bus leaving Stansted at 1am, thus necessitating a painfully long wait for the next bus to Heathrow. Upon arriving at Heathrow, we then spent the next three hours curled up together on a cold cement floor trying to sleep! I do not recommend this as the resulting muscle cramps proved to be nearly unbearable. Finally 5am rolled around and the X70 to Oxford arrived. We limped back to our flat, grateful for the chance to see the gorgeous cities and landscapes of Scandinavia, but oh so excited to be sleeping in our own bed once again.



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